April 22, 2011
Welcome back to the kitchen. Ahhh spring. It’s a truly lovely time of year. For many, this time is marked by
celebrations of the easter holiday. I wasn’t raised with my own family easter traditions, but I absorbed my
share of candy, egg hunts, and shiny fake grass vicariously.
/> And I have been to a few great Easter
brunches and dinners in my time. I’ve come to understand that ham is a staple easter food for many, and I
can certainly appreciate that. A good sweet/salty bone-in ham is a true thing of beauty, and the leftovers can
fuel many a great meal afterwards.
But I’m not going to suggest we roast a whole ham. It is totally worth it, but also a bit extravagant.
Another easter classic for the brunch set is eggs benedict, that perfect pairing of poached egg, Canadian bacon
(or ham), and hollandaise sauce over a split english muffin.
/> I also adore eggs benedict. But getting your
hollandaise sauce just right is actually pretty tricky, which is surprising when you consider it is basically just
emulsified egg yolks, butter, lemon juice, and hot sauce. Still, it does take some practice to end up with a
correctly creamy sauce and not scrambled eggs.
/> And I hate to point this out, but hollandaise
sauce may well be one of the least healthy sauces you can make. So I want to propose my own take on easter brunch
that is both healthier and easier to accomplish. Let’s make prosciutto-wrapped grilled asparagus benedict
with a healthier yogurt-based hollandaise. We’ll have some rosemary roasted red potato home fries, some
greens, and a fruit salad on the side.
/> Sounds pretty good, no? If we can find
prosciutto (which is available at most deli counters), we can cut down further on the fat without sacrificing any
flavor. The yogurt hollandaise sauce isn’t a perfect replacement for hollandaise. That is not to say that it
isn’t very tasty, because it is. It’s just that there really is no substitute for a ton of butter. But
think of this dish as something new and delicious, not something that can make you fully forget the original.
I want to make sure we use asparagus in
this brunch, because it is coming in fresh from Quincy and it is one of our tastiest and shortest lived local
crops. Prosciutto wrapped asparagus is a classic appetizer or side dish, so I thought why not incorporate it into
the benedict itself?
So for these
low(er) fat prosciutto-wrapped asparagus eggs benedict (for four people) we’ll need:
-8 farm fresh eggs
-4 whole wheat English muffins or fresh baked ciabatta rolls
-16 asparagus spears
-8 large, thin slices of prosciutto, each piece cut in half again
/>-a brushing of olive oil and balsamic vinegar (maybe just a teaspoon or so)
-fresh chopped chives and
parsley plus a pinch of paprika for garnish
For the yogurt and chive
hollandaise we’ll need:
3 egg yolks
½ to 1
teaspoon Dijon mustard (depending on taste)
1 cup plain yogurt, low fat Greek style preferred
small dash of fresh lemon juice (like 1 teaspoon or so)
A small dash of hot sauce like Tabasco
tablespoon chopped fresh chives
pepper to taste (plus a pinch of salt if needed)
/> OK, so let’s start off by roasting the
prosciutto asparagus. We can do this in the oven just fine, but doing it on the bbq grill will add a nice smokey
flavor. Start by rinsing the asparagus spears and snapping off the woody end, about the last inch or so. Do this
part by hand, not with a knife, because the asparagus will snap right where it needs to.
/> Next, cut all the spears in half so they will
be short enough to fit on the English muffins. Take two pieces of asparagus (or two halves rather, for one whole
spear) and lay them side by side. Take one of the half pieces of prosicutto and wrap it around the middle of the
asparagus. It should be wapped tightly enough to just sort of stick to itself. Put each completed prosciutto-
wrapped asparagus packet onto a plate.
/> When all 16 asparagus wraps are done,
sprinkle a little bit of olive oil and balsamic vinegar over the whole plate and turn them all over so they each
get a bit of flavoring. I would also add some fresh black pepper here as well. If you are roasting them in the
oven, preheat it to 400 degrees and lay out the asparagus on a baking sheet. If you are grilling them, preheat the
barbecue to medium high.
only take a few minutes to cook the asparagus and crisp up the prosciutto a bit, so don’t leave these
unattended. Turn the bundles over after about 2 minutes and cook until the asparagus is fork tender but not mushy.
Yum! It’s hard not to just eat these as is, but set them aside for now.
/> Next lets make the low fat yogurt hollandaise
sauce. First we need to separate the egg yolks from the whites. To do this, crack an egg and pass the yolk back
and forth between the shell halves over a bowl, letting the egg white drop away into the bowl with each pass. Soon
enough, you will have just the yolk left. Put that into a medium metal bowl and repeat until you have 3 yolks. You
can discard the egg whites or cook them up for an extra health conscious person (yes, the yolk contains all of the
Using a wire whisk,
beat the egg yolks, lemon juice, and yogurt in the metal bowl. Beat it for at least a few minutes, until it is
nice and creamy. If you have a double boiler, use that next. But even easier, just use a pot that is smaller than
the bowl, bring some water to a boil, then set the metal bowl on top (making sure the bottom doesn’t
actually touch the boiling water directly). The point of using a (real or makeshift) double boiler like this is it
keeps the sauce heating on a constant, controlled low temperature that can’t spike above 212 degrees. If you
cook hollandaise too quickly, the eggs will scramble.
/> Anyway, keep beating the egg yolks, yogurt,
etc over the heat until it thickens up. You may notice that it actually gets thinner first, then thickens up after
about 10 minutes or so. You want to make sure you stir fairly frequently while this is cooking. After 10-15
minutes, when the sauce is thick, remove it from the heat but keep it over the steaming water to keep it hot.
Stir in the hot sauce, mustard, pepper,
and fresh chives. Parlsley would also be tasty in here, and tarragon could be amazing as well. The sauce will
keep, warm, for about an hour or so. If it cools and gets too thick, add a very little bit of boiling water and
warm it up on the double boiler.
/> OK, so we’ve got our roasted asparagus
wrapped with prosciutto, and our creamy lower fat hollandaise sauce. All we need to do now is poach our eggs and
toast our English muffins.
eggs is really simple, and low fat, but it can take a little practice. Basically we are going to cook them in
ALMOST boiling water. But if the water gets too hot and actually gets boiling, it will break up the egg and ruin
it. Many cooks add a tablespoon or two of white vinegar to the water, which supposedly helps to firm up the egg
white and keep it together.
fill a sauce pan with water and bring it to an almost boil. If it starts actually boiling away, turn the heat down
until it calms down. It is best to work with your eggs one by one, unless you have one of those handy poaching
cups pan inserts. Add the vinegar, if you want (it is optional).
/> Crack an egg into a small cup, bring it close
to the surface of the pan, and gently nudge it into the hot water. Use a spoon to nudge the egg whites closer to
the yolk, so it cooks closer together and doesn’t get all wispy with egg strands. Turn off the heat and
cover the pan for about 4 minutes, until the egg whites are solidly cooked. By the way, I wouldn’t try to
poach all 8 of the eggs at once unless you are a real pro. I did mine in a couple batches. When the whites are
cooked, use a slotted spoon to fish each egg out of the hot water bath.
/> Hopefully by now you’ve found time to
split the English muffins and lightly toast them. To arrange each plate, lay down 2 English muffin halves and top
each with two asparagus and prosciutto wraps side by side. Next slide a poached egg on top of each of those. Top
with a generous dollop of the warm, creamy, tangy hollandaise sauce. And finally, some more chopped parsley and
chives and a little dash of paprika and pepper for a garnish. Viola! A magnificent take on a spring easter brunch.
Serve the prosciutto wrapped
asparagus eggs benedict with some roasted rosemary homefries, some baby greens, and maybe a simple fruit salad.
Perfection! Nice work everyone. I hope you enjoy your easter celebration, if that is your thing, or otherwise find
time to celebrate the season with friends, family, and of course great food.
/> I’d love to hear what recipes you
associate with spring. Send me any questions or comments to email@example.com. Cooking local in the KOHO
Kitchen, I’m Isaac Kaplan-Woolner.