October 05, 2012
definitely changed around here. The days are still sunny and pleasant, but the evenings just recently took on that
particularly harsh chill that signals the true death of summer.
quantities of crops are coming in out of the cold. The days of fresh tomatoes are giving way to squash and root
vegetables, brassicas and apples. This is pie season, stew season, a time for hot cider and toddies.
style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"> It also marks
three weeks of wild celebration in Leavenworth, which celebrates Oktoberfest (though in Bavaria it starts in
September). The beers and brats will be flowing with abandon.
I wanted to do a bit of a cooking local twist on a classic German dish. I want to make a delicious schnitzel with
sautéed apples and cabbage with whole grain mustard sauce.
breaded cutlet fried or sautéed until golden brown. It is a dish cooked in many cultures around the world,
but is strongly associated with German cuisine. If you have ever had chicken tenders, you have basically had a
form of schnitzel. But when home made fresh, this is one of the quickest, easiest, and juiciest ways to cook up
some pork, chicken, or other boneless meat. The two tricks are to pound the meat thin so it is tender and cooks
quickly, and to use the classic three dip breading method to get that crispy breading to stick.
"margin: 0in 0in 0pt"> The apple topping or
side dish is also simple, we will just sautee some shallots, onions or leeks in a little bacon fat, add in some
thin sliced apples and cabbage or brussel sprouts, add a little splash of cider (hard or soft), apple cider
vinegar, and a spoon of whole grain mustard. We’ll let that get nice and tender, and it will make a
deliciously sweet and tangy topping for the schnitzel.
perfect hangover food, so it’s totally ok if you end up making this for a late brunch on Sunday instead of
trying to pregame with a heavy dinner before Oktoberfest celebrations.
because I’ve got some nice, lean, naturally raised chicken breasts. But boneless pork chops, beef, or turkey
would work equally well (but all taste a little different).
chicken breasts (about 1 to 1.5 pounds)
"margin: 0in 0in 0pt">-1 egg, beaten
"margin: 0in 0in 0pt">-3/4 cup bread crumbs or panko breading
for the breading including black pepper, tiny pinch of cayenne and/or paprika, dash of garlic powder, and ¼
teaspoon salt (seasoned or regular, also feel free to vary the spices)
about ½ cup peanut or other high frying cooking oil
and chopped fresh parsley for garnish
firm, ripe apple (or two medium apples), chopped into thin slices or small bite sized pieces
"margin: 0in 0in 0pt">-1 medium onion (or 1 leek or 3 shallots, depending on what is local and what you’ve
got), sliced thin
"margin: 0in 0in 0pt">-about 1/3 cup apple cider (the hard stuff if you’ve got it, or the regular sweet
stuff, or even substitute white wine if that’s what you have on hand)
taste (plus fresh tarragon if you’ve got it, but that is optional
dish, because we want to let it cook down a bit and it will take a little longer than the schnitzel. Plus, we want
to serve our schnitzel nice and hot, so let’s start with the apple dish.
the bacon over a medium heat, stirring every few minutes. Once the bacon bits have released their fat and are
starting to crisp up nicely, revoke the bacon pieces and set aside. Toss the sliced onions into the bacon fat and
sauté until they start to become translucent. Next, stir in the apple pieces and reduce the heat to medium
low. Saute the apples and onions, stirring occasionally, until the fruit starts to soften.
"margin: 0in 0in 0pt"> Next, add the cider or
white wine, vinegar, and mustard. Also toss in the fresh tarragon if you are using it. Let the liquids simmer over
a low heat and cook down for about 5 or 10 minutes. When the liquids have partially cooked off, add in the
shredded cabbage and cover the skillet to let the remaining steam help it cook. When the cabbage is tender and the
liquids have reduced down, remove this apple dish from the heat. But taste it first. Is there enough of a mustardy
bite? Does it need a bit more cider to sweeter, or a splash more vinegar instead? Trust your tongue
chicken schnitzels. The first step is to pound each chicken breast until it has flattened out to about 1/4 inch or
so. I like to do this inside of a large zip top bag to keep the countertops clean. Also, I don’t have a meat
tenderizing hammer, so I improvised with a heavy rolling pin. You could use a heavy but small frying pan, a can of
soup, or any other heavy flattening object you can find. Try to flatten out each piece of chicken relatively
evenly, so they cook evenly.
dredge them in the plain flour first, making sure they are covered all over but shaking out the excess. Beat
together the egg and milk in a bowl, and dip each piece of chicken in the mixture (one at a time). On a large
plate mix together the bread crumbs with the salt and spices, then roll the egg covered chicken cutlet in the
breading, making sure it sticks to both sides. This three step method is the secret to getting perfect fried
coating to stick. The plain flour and egg act as glue for the seasoned bread crumbs.
skillet to medium high, then cook the cutlets in batches. If they are big, just do one at a time. They should take
about 3 or 4 minutes per side to reach a nice, crispy golden brown and cook the chicken all the way through. Set
each cutlet aside on a paper towel to cool when they are done.
schnitzel with a delicious local apple, cabbage, and onion sauté to go with it, yum! Serve each cutlet with
a generous helping of the mustard flavored apples, plus a sprinkling of chopped parsley and a lemon wedge. You
could also do some buttered egg noodles with pepper and parsley to sort of approximate German spaetzle if you want
to continue the Oktoberfest theme.
sautéed apples and cabbage (with that wonderful hint of bacon goodness) go great with the juicy, crispy
chicken cutlets. And this meal can actually be thrown together pretty quickly on a weeknight. I do recommend using
a grease splatter screen and turning on your stove’s exhaust fan when frying the schnitzel, as that can
become a messy and smoky business if you aren’t careful.
celebrating our area’s apples and Oktoberfest. What recipes are you tempted by as we move into fall? Send me
any questions, comments, or suggestions to Isaac@kohoradio.com. Cooking
local in the KOHO Kitchen, I’m Isaac Kaplan-Woolner.