March 01, 2013
going to play one of my favorite kitchen games: make something up with the things you’ve got! I think this
is a really great way to teach yourself to be a better cook, because necessity really is the mother of
let themselves cook “off book”, and are much happier to follow an exact recipe to a t. But what if you
run out of something or can’t find a specific ingredient? Are you prepared to wing it? I think one of the
best skills home cooks can foster is the ability to imagine different flavors together and come up with new and
winning combinations. Instead of studying recipes, study cooking techniques and know all the different ways to use
an ingredient. And think of classifying ingredients into different flavor and texture categories, so you can pick
and choose at will.
up dish I stumbled across a few Sundays back. A friend of mine was visiting, and she is a huge fan of French
toast. I like good French toast as much as the next person, but I am not the biggest fan of sweet breakfasts.
Plus, I have run out of my 100% pure grade B maple syrup, so sweet French toast was completely out of the question
for a New England born food snob like me.
getting long in the tooth, some local eggs, some great locally smoked salmon, a big bag of local shallots
I’ve been keeping in storage, and a big bag of baby spinach.
I was struck with inspiration to attempt a dish I’d never tried or even tasted before: why not make French
toast savory? Why is this dish always served sweet? We often have eggs and toast together for a savory breakfast,
so why not combine them?!
vanilla, cinnamon, and other sweeter spices in the egg mixture, and add in some more savory spices (in this case
herbs de Provence). Then we are going to top the savory French toast with sautéed spinach with shallots and
smoked salmon. Without a syrup component, the French toast may end up a little dry. I think a white sauce or a
hollandaise would be very decadent and delicious, and that might be how I would serve it in a restaurant, but that
extra step for the sauce will be a real pain. So instead I’m opting for some sweet/savory tomato jam as a
topping. Fresh tomato would be good too.
recipe, let me just reiterate that this was a totally made up recipe (which I have since tweaked ever so slightly)
truly based on what I had on hand. So please feel more than free to change out ingredients or make up a completely
different version depending on your tastes and ingredient availability. The point here is to try and free us from
the strictures of exact recipes and just let our palates run wild.
Sautéed Spinach, Shallots, and Smoked Salmon we will need:
other nice, relatively light bread
pinch or herbs de Provence spice mix (or other savory spices)
style="background: white">1 Tbsp. high heat oil (sunflower or safflower)
"background: white; color: black">-about 1 pound washed spinach leaves (baby or otherwise)
style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">-3 or 4 shallots (mine were on the
smaller side), peeled and sliced into thin strips (yes, shallots are a pain to peel, but they have an amazingly
sweet and delicious flavor and I prefer them to onions when I can get them, but of course you could substitute
onions, leeks, or any other allium)
peeled and chopped fine
creation, let’s start by beating the eggs together in a pie pan or other shallow, walled dish with the milk,
salt, pepper, and herbs de Provence until everything is nicely blended. You can use day old bread for the savory
French toast, or you can dry it out a little bit in the toaster oven on a low heat until it is a little dry, but
not all the way toasted brown. This will allow the bread to soak up even more of the egg mixture, giving it a
better and more custardy texture throughout.
"background: white; color: black"> Let the
bread slices soak up as much of the egg mixture as possible while you heat up the butter and oil mixture on a
medium high heat. Flip the slices of bread several times so the eggs get a good chance to absorb all the way
through. Then place the slices into the buttered pan and let them brown, about 4 minutes or so, on each side, or
until they are cooked through but not burnt or dried out.
style="background: white; color: black"> Now,
in an ideal world you have also been sautéing the spinach and salmon topping during this time, so
everything is ready to serve and eat nice and hot. But if not, just cover the savory French toast in foil and
place in the oven or toaster oven on a low heat to keep warm.
style="background: white; color: black"> For
the sautéed spinach, heat up the olive oil in the skillet over medium high heat. When the oil starts to
shimmer, add in the sliced shallots. After a few minutes, stir the shallots and add in the chopped garlic. Once
the shallots have turned translucent and sweet, crumble in the smoked salmon, being careful to remove any bones
you come across. Then add in all the spinach leaves. As the leaves start to wilt and get smaller, it will be
easier to stir the pan. Add the salt and pepper to taste, and sauté and stir the spinach until it is just
wilted, not all mushy and overcooked. Immediately remove the pan from the heat when the spinach is done, which
won’t take more than a couple minutes.
style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"> Serve the savory French toast both topped
with and surrounded by the delicious sautéed spinach, shallots, and smoked salmon plus a nice big blob of
that sweet/savory tomato jam or slices of fresh tomatoes. I think salsa could also work here. Originally I served
this dish topped with some plain yogurt as well, but the flavor wasn’t quite right to me. So I might try
sour cream next time, or just leave off that extra dairy entirely.
dish made up on the spot! Now, I have since searched around and found that I am by no means the first to try
savory French toast. In fact, come summer time when tomatoes are in season, I’m going to have to try a thick
cut bacon BLT with savory French toast and plenty of ripe garden tomatoes. But for now I am pleased with how this
dish came out, and I’d be curious how your version turns out. Send me any questions, comments, or
suggestions to Isaac@kohoradio.com. Cooking local in the KOHO Kitchen,
I’m Isaac Kaplan-Woolner.